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I programmed some EZ controllers here and sent them to a friend overseas. He tells me they don't work and he wants to re-program them. I watched him download some programs on his computer while he was here and he knows how to do it.

He is describing a problem I have often encountered over the last few years of using the EZcontroller.

The EZ Downloader stops and prints a message that it 'cannot communicate with device'. Many times this happens because I screwed up the I/O portB.1 & .3 pins so please ignore that as a response (He is just reloading software that I know is functional). He knows the polarity of the connector as well.

We are using the EZ doenloader from the web site January 2007 and the EZ controller (20MHz) from Sourceboost. He is using a real COM port and I use a USB converter.

Sometimes, every six months or so, I get jammed up by the same message and I reset the EZ to no avail. I reboot my computer and restart the EZ downloader but nothing changes. Sometimes I reset the EZ six times before I try to download again and it will not help. I check the cables and I have not fiddled with the COM port settings but I play there anyway.(115k Baud)

THEN EVERYTHING WORKS! Nothing has been damaged.

I don't know what I have done but I need to send better info to my pal than "my luck is better than yours"

Has anybody else had this problem and worked out a logical answer?

 

I am hoping he will see this post and read your replies (or join).

 

Thanks for your patience if you read this far :blink:

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Have you checked the status of your power supplies on a scope?

 

If you are getting bad levels, regulation ripples too large, or

large amounts of transient noise from your supply, it will generate

these types of issues. (i have not used any of the EZ stuff but have

had these issues with other hardware and configurations). Also adding

power hungry components to your board might pull your supply down

to where you experiance these issues as well.

 

And as we all know, most overseas area use a different frequency

so this as well may introduce problems if he is using a converter

instead of a power block made to use his local frequencies.

 

Maybe those thoughts will help since they are simple to fix.

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rfhaley,

 

I programmed some EZ controllers here and sent them to a friend overseas. He tells me they don't work and he wants to re-program them. I watched him download some programs on his computer while he was here and he knows how to do it.

He is describing a problem I have often encountered over the last few years of using the EZcontroller.

The EZ Downloader stops and prints a message that it 'cannot communicate with device'. Many times this happens because I screwed up the I/O portB.1 & .3 pins so please ignore that as a response (He is just reloading software that I know is functional).

Yes thats normally the problem.

 

He knows the polarity of the connector as well.

We are using the EZ doenloader from the web site January 2007 and the EZ controller (20MHz) from Sourceboost. He is using a real COM port and I use a USB converter.

Sometimes, every six months or so, I get jammed up by the same message and I reset the EZ to no avail. I reboot my computer and restart the EZ downloader but nothing changes. Sometimes I reset the EZ six times before I try to download again and it will not help. I check the cables and I have not fiddled with the COM port settings but I play there anyway.(115k Baud)

These settings actually make no difference to Ez-Downloader as it sets the baud rate itself.

 

THEN EVERYTHING WORKS! Nothing has been damaged.

I don't know what I have done but I need to send better info to my pal than "my luck is better than yours"

Has anybody else had this problem and worked out a logical answer?

The only vaguely similiar issue I've heard of was one user that had a faulty RS232 port. He was able to download once, but then no more until he wipe the Ez-Controller program completely. Switching to another RS232 port (actually a USB to RS232 adaptor) solve the problem.

 

It sounds like something about your system is either on the edge (RS logic levels for example) or the hardware is getting screwed up.

 

Not easy to say exactly what, but I can say no other users are reporting this problem.

 

Regards

Dave

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Thanks to both. I suspect there is trouble using my grounded design on an ungrounded 50Hz source, but I have no deliberate connections to case ground. My friend says there is powerline noise, at 50V to ground, on the ground side of his supply so maybe everything is toast or I should have used differential signals. His computer ground should be the same as the EZ due to the programming cable. The EZ is fed from a 24/5V switcher on my board and the 24V is isolated and comes from a PLC that is working.

Sounds like a badproject...

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I took 4 EZs from existing boards that were socket mounted intermediate prototypes. The first one would not accept a program until I clicked over and over, 6 times. Then it accepted the communication. I am using the cable that came with my devices and changing only the EZ dip (with the power off!).

The second programmed right away. The last two will not accept a program no matter how many times I reset or reclick the Program button. The power LED is on for every chip but I am repairing my basement so my shop is in boxes.

It does not matter whether I am in Sourceboost or running EZDownloader by itself.

 

Are these bootloder memeories susceptible to Xrays at the airport? Could my bootloaders be corrupt? :blink:

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I took 4 EZs from existing boards that were socket mounted intermediate prototypes. The first one would not accept a program until I clicked over and over, 6 times. Then it accepted the communication. I am using the cable that came with my devices and changing only the EZ dip (with the power off!).

The second programmed right away. The last two will not accept a program no matter how many times I reset or reclick the Program button. The power LED is on for every chip but I am repairing my basement so my shop is in boxes.

It does not matter whether I am in Sourceboost or running EZDownloader by itself.

 

Are these bootloder memeories susceptible to Xrays at the airport? Could my bootloaders be corrupt? :blink:

 

 

That is more a microchip question on thier level for shielding is it not?

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Quite right.

Microchip shows a list of troubles related to latchup. It turns out I have several EZ with burnt out reset pins. The 18F252 by itself shows a short to ground. ;)

I wonder what I have done? One of the bad chips was on a board that did not even connect the reset button. The EZ reset is pulled up by 10k and has a capacitor to ground.

Still looking... :(

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Quite right.

Microchip shows a list of troubles related to latchup. It turns out I have several EZ with burnt out reset pins. The 18F252 by itself shows a short to ground. ;)

I wonder what I have done? One of the bad chips was on a board that did not even connect the reset button. The EZ reset is pulled up by 10k and has a capacitor to ground.

Still looking... :(

 

Non-polarized cap and a very bad ground loop current might cause you problems.

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Quite right.

Microchip shows a list of troubles related to latchup. It turns out I have several EZ with burnt out reset pins. The 18F252 by itself shows a short to ground. ;)

I wonder what I have done? One of the bad chips was on a board that did not even connect the reset button. The EZ reset is pulled up by 10k and has a capacitor to ground.

Still looking... :(

 

Non-polarized cap and a very bad ground loop current might cause you problems.

 

Some of your earlier comments describe a common latchup problem (not Microchip specific) that occurs when you have two systems that are powered independently with floating earth that are subsequently connected together without ensuring that the ground is the first connection made.

 

1. CONNECT A GROUND FROM THE PIC TO THE PC. Do this before powering up either system. This will avoid the latch up problem.

 

2. Remove the capacitor

 

3. Check that the power supply of the PIC to make sure you are not tripping the BOR

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Some of your earlier comments describe a common latchup problem (not Microchip specific) that occurs when you have two systems that are powered independently with floating earth that are subsequently connected together without ensuring that the ground is the first connection made.

 

1. CONNECT A GROUND FROM THE PIC TO THE PC. Do this before powering up either system. This will avoid the latch up problem.

 

2. Remove the capacitor

 

3. Check that the power supply of the PIC to make sure you are not tripping the BOR

 

The Microchip specific issue in question was regarding the level of X-Ray radiation sheilding.

But it seems he has now discovered burnt out pins are his issue.

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Some of your earlier comments describe a common latchup problem (not Microchip specific) that occurs when you have two systems that are powered independently with floating earth that are subsequently connected together without ensuring that the ground is the first connection made.

 

1. CONNECT A GROUND FROM THE PIC TO THE PC. Do this before powering up either system. This will avoid the latch up problem.

 

2. Remove the capacitor

 

3. Check that the power supply of the PIC to make sure you are not tripping the BOR

 

The Microchip specific issue in question was regarding the level of X-Ray radiation sheilding.

But it seems he has now discovered burnt out pins are his issue.

 

I suspect this is cause and effect related.

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Thanks. I think we're making progress. The EZ uses a bootloader so I thought it might be a loss of bootloader, but now it seems to be the jammed reset.

 

My system sends 24V to one board that feeds the EZ and sends 5V back up the same Cat5 (15m) cable to another PIC. Power on sequence trouble would bother the second PIC but it does not.

Power and ground are connected before power on and Never disconnected with the power on.

For sure, disconnecting, with the power on, the Cat5 cable that carries power & ground will blow up the PICs.

My entire project is a 128bit line follower that has a second PIC for remote potentiometer adjustments. It works well in Canada and can follow a fuzzy edged line on a cylinder while looking through a scratched, practically opaque window.

 

Perhaps I should use RS485 and separate power supplies.

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